Kolsai and Kaindy lakes: how to get there and what to see

Kolsai lakes and Kaindy lake are the mountain jewels of south-east Kazakhstan. Spruce forest running down to clear water and the famous sunken forest make them some of the most photogenic places in Central Asia.

Getting there

The lakes are about 300 kilometres from Almaty — a five-to-six-hour drive — so plan at least two days with a night in a guesthouse in Saty village. Part of the road to Kaindy is a dirt track that needs a 4x4.

Kolsai: three lakes

The lower lake is reachable by car, almost to the shore. A scenic trail of about 5 kilometres each way leads to the middle lake — a half-day walk. The upper lake lies close to the border and needs a proper hike.

Kaindy: the sunken forest

Kaindy lake formed after the 1911 earthquake, when a landslide dammed the gorge. Spruce trunks still rise out of the water — a sight that draws photographers from all over the world. The water stays cold and turquoise even in summer.

When to go

• June–September — the main season, trails are open
• Late September — golden autumn and fewer people
• In winter the lakes freeze and the road to Kaindy can be closed

Tips

• Bring warm layers — mountain evenings are cool even in summer
• Carry cash: cards aren’t accepted everywhere in the villages
• Signal is weak at the lakes — download maps in advance

In the still morning air Kolsai mirrors the mountains so perfectly you can’t tell water from sky.

The lakes are often combined with Charyn Canyon for a full two-to-three-day trip from Almaty.